Opel Omega

since 1993-1999 of release

Repair and car operation

Opel Omega
+ 1. Maintenance instruction
+ 2. Maintenance
+ 3. Repair of engines
+ 4. Heating system and ventilation
+ 5. Fuel, exhaust systems
+ 6. System of start of the engine
+ 7. Ignition system
+ 8. Coupling
+ 9. Transmissions
+ 10. Main transfer, semi-axes
+ 11. Brake system
+ 12. Suspension bracket and steering
- 13. Body
   13.1. Technical characteristics
   13.2. Maintenance and repair
   13.3. Repair of insignificant damages of a body
   13.4. Repair of considerable damages of a body
   13.5. Loops and locks
   13.6. Windscreen and motionless glasses
   13.7. Bumpers
   13.8. Front grille
   13.9. Cowl and basic racks
   13.10. Rope of the lock of a cowl
   13.11. Spring of the lock of a cowl
   13.12. Doors
   13.13. Internal panel of furnish of a door
   13.14. Door handles and locks
   13.15. Window regulators and glasses
   13.16. Back lateral glass (models with the Versatile person type body)
   13.17. Lock of a zaslonka of a fuel tank and lock rope
   13.18. Trunk lid and basic racks
   13.19. Elements of the lock of a trunk lid
   13.20. Back door and basic racks
   13.21. Elements of the lock of a back door
   13.22. Elements of system of the central lock
   13.23. Elements of electric window regulators
   13.24. External rear-view mirrors
   13.25. A windscreen and the fixed glasses
   13.26. Elements of the top hatch
   13.27. External elements of a body
   13.28. Seats
   13.29. Elements of seat belts
   13.30. Internal panels of furnish
   13.31. Central console
   13.32. Glove compartment
   13.33. Dashboard
+ 14. Body electric equipment

13.3. Repair of insignificant damages of a body

Repair of small scratches

If scratch superficial also does not mention body metal, repair is very simple.

1. Slightly rub the scratched surface with thin polishing structure to remove friable paint and wax.
2. Wash out a surface pure water.
3. Put paint for a podkrashivaniye on scratch by means of a small brush.
4. Continue to put thin paint coats until paint completely will not fill scratch.
5. Let's to new paint dry up, at least, within two weeks, and then mix it with surrounding paint, заполировав the painted area by means of thin polishing structure.
6. And, at last, put the top layer of wax on the scratched surface.

If scratch got through paint and damaged body metal, having caused emergence of a rust, it is necessary to apply other procedure of repair.

1. Remove a rust from the scratch basis by means of a pocket knife, and then put anticorrosive paint to prevent emergence of a rust in the future.
2. Having used a rubber or nylon applikator, cover the scratched area with a glaze (a glaze – a translucent paint layer).
3. Before the glaze in scratch will harden, place a piece of a smooth cotton fabric round a finger-tip.
4. Ship a fabric in a thinner, and then quickly carry out it round a scratch surface. It will help you will be convinced that a glaze surface the slightly hollow.
5. Now it is possible to paint over scratch.


If it is necessary, the glaze can be mixed with a thinner to prepare very thin putty which is ideally suited for filling of narrow scratches.

Repair of dents

1. During carrying out repair of dents the first that it is necessary to make is to correct a dent that the damaged place was as it is possible closer to an initial form. There is no sense to try to restore completely an initial form as metal in the damaged place is stretched and it it is impossible to restore to an initial contour. It is better to level a dent so that its level was approximately on 3 mm below level of surrounding metal.
2. In case the dent very small, in general is not present sense it to level.


Strongly hold wooden whetstone from a reverse side of metal to absorb blows of a hammer and to prevent metal stretching.

3. If the dent is in such part of a body which has a double layer, or something else does impossible access from within, it is necessary to apply other procedure.
4. Drill some small openings in metal in the damaged surface, mainly in the deepest parts.
5. Screw in long being self-cut screws in openings so that they entered into strong gearing with metal.
6. Now it is possible to correct a dent, having pulled for acting heads of screws by means of flat-nose pliers.
7. The following stage of repair is a removal of paint from the damaged surface and from surrounding metal approximately on 2,5 see. It becomes by means of a wire brush or a disk for the polishing, put on a drill, however with not smaller efficiency it can be made manually by means of an emery paper.
8. To finish preparations for a shpatlevka, smooth out a screw-driver or a file a surface of the bared metal or drill small openings in the damaged area. It will provide good coupling of metal and a glaze.
9. To finish repair it is necessary filling and painting.

Repair of openings from a rust or cracks

1. Remove all paint from the damaged surface and from surrounding metal in radius about 2,5 cm, having used an emery paper or the wire brush, put on a drill. If they are inaccessible, this work can be made manually by means of several sheets of an emery paper.
2. Having peeled the paint, you can define extent of corrosion and solve, whether replace the whole panel or if it is possible, to repair the damaged surface. New panels of a body are not too expensive, as many people think, and very often to establish the new panel much quicker, than to repair the big surface damaged by a rust.
3. Remove all parts of decorative furnish from the damaged area, except for what operate as a directing initial form of the damaged body of the car, such as the headlight case, and so on.
4. Having used scissors on metal or a nozhovochny cloth, remove all damaged metal, and also any other metal on which there are rust traces.
5. A hammer bend opening edges inside to create small dredging for a filling material.
6. A wire brush smooth out the damaged surface to remove a poroshkoobrazny rust from a metal surface. If there is an access to a back part of a rusty surface, cover it with anticorrosive paint.
7. Before final seal закупорьте in any way an opening. It can be made by means of a tin, priklepanny or screwed in in an opening, or having established in an opening a wire grid.
8. When the opening will be corked, the damaged area can be filled and painted over.

Filling and painting

Now well large number of fillers for body repair, however, frankly speaking, a set of details for body repair in which there is a filling paste, and a tube of a hardener of polymers best of all is suitable for carrying out repair work. The wide flexible plastic or nylon applikator will be necessary for alignment of a surface of a shpatlevka for you.

1. Mix a small amount of a mix of a shpatlevka on a pure wooden plate or a piece of cardboard (economically spending a hardener). Follow instructions of producers on packing, differently the shpatlevka will harden incorrectly.
2. Using an applikator, put filling paste on the prepared surface.
3. Carry out an applikator on a shpatlevka surface to reach a desirable contour and to balance a shpatlevka surface.
4. When initial level and a contour will be reached, stop work with paste. If you continue, paste will stick to an applikator.
5. Continue to put thin layers of paste with 20-minute intervals while level of a shpatlevka will precisely not correspond to level of surrounding metal.
6. When the shpatlevka will harden, it is possible to remove its surplus by means of a file. Further it is necessary to use an emery paper, gradually increasing its granularity, having begun with paper with an indicator of granularity of 180 units and having finished waterproof paper with an indicator of granularity of 600 units. Always reel up an emery paper on rubber or wooden whetstone, differently a surface of a shpatlevka will not be completely flat. During polishing of a surface of a shpatlevka with an indicator of granularity of 600 units it is necessary to moisten a waterproof emery paper periodically in water. It will help to reach very smooth surface.
7. Now the ring of naked metal which, in turn, should be surrounded with the good intact paint should surround area of repair. Wash out area of repair by water until all dust which has remained after polishing, will not be removed.
8. On all smoothed-out surface apply a thin film a soil covering. It will help to find all defects on a shpatlevka surface.
9. Correct the found defects by means of a fresh shpatlevka or a glaze and once again smooth out a surface an emery paper.
10. Repeat procedure of drawing of a first coat and a shpatlevka until you will not be satisfied with quality of a surface of a shpatlevka and a paint edge.
11. Wash out a surface pure water and let's to it dry completely.
12. Now the area of repair is ready to painting.
13. Coloring by dispersion is necessary for carrying out at warm, dry, windless weather when in air there will be no dust. These conditions can be reached, if you have an access to a big production room. However if you have to work in the open air, to choose day of painting it is necessary very carefully.
14. If you work indoors, sprinkle water a floor. It will help you to beat a dust which differently can rise in air.
15. If the area of repair is on one panel of a body, close all surrounding panels. It will help you to minimize small discrepancy in color paints.
16. Decorative details of furnish, such as and so on, it is also necessary to disguise or remove chromic slips, door handles. For masking use a sticky tape and several layers of paper.
17. Before dispersion carefully взболтайте paint, and then be trained to spray it to learn to do it correctly.
18. Put a thick layer of a first coat on a repaired surface. It is better to put some thin layers, than one thick.
19. By means of an emery paper with granularity of 600 units smooth out a first coat surface until it does not become very smooth. During carrying out this operation the processed surface should be moistened with water carefully. The emery paper is also necessary for lowering periodically in water.
20. Let's to a first coat dry before drawing of additional layers.
21. Spray paint on the top layer, increasing its thickness by drawing of several layers. Start to spray paint from the center of repaired area, and then, using roundabouts, process all repaired surface, and also about 5 cm of surrounding paint.
22. Remove all masking material in 10–15 minutes after drawing of the last paint coat.
23. Let's to new paint dry, at least, two weeks, and then by means of very thin grinding structure make imperceptible transition from new paint to initial.
24. In completion of work put a wax layer.